Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Mauritius


 Mauritius was made first, and then Heaven, and that Heaven was copied after Mauritius.” –Mark Twain

Mauritius truly is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been.  Even though it was raining when we pulled into the port, we could still tell it was beautiful by the bright blue water and the green mountains in the background.  When we got off the ship we took a 5 minute water taxi to where many of the markets and restaurants are in Port Louis.  We saw a very diverse mix of people.  It was the first place we actually didn’t stand out.  (Well I’m sure we stood out for being a group of obnoxious college students, but for once, we didn’t stand out for how we looked or how we dressed.)  There was a beautiful mix of Indian, African, Asian, and European people.  Many of the people spoke English and/or Creole.  We walked around and saw some of the local fish and produce markets and then took a cab to Grand Bay, a popular beach area.  We ate lunch at a restaurant on the water and then headed to our villa, which was about 3 miles from Grand Bay.

One of our friends rented out 3 villas on the beach so a small handful of us (about 30) decided to stay there.  Our villa was literally on the beach.  We stepped out of the door and onto the sand.  We spent the entire first day swimming, listening to music, and barbequing.  I also met the people who owned the villa next door.  They were two men from France who happened to be quite good looking.  I played a few games of ping pong with them on the beach and then went back to hanging out with my other friends.  Right before it started to get dark I borrowed someone’s snorkel and went out into the water to look for fish.  It occurred to me that there could be sharks in the water so I didn’t stay out too long.

Later that night a bunch of us went out to a bar and met up with other SASers.  Even though we stayed out really late, I woke up really early the next morning.  It could have been because I was sleeping upright in a chair with the sun shining bright in my eyes.  It was hilarious to wake up and see everyone sleeping in the weirdest positions, on top of whatever they could find, surrounded by leftover food and lots of sand.  (Luckily, I snuck out just in time to miss the cleanup.)

A few of us went out to breakfast in Grand Bay and met up with other people who were going on a catamaran ride for the day.  We decided to join them and a group of about 25 of us spent the day out on the boat.  We took the boat to an island that looked like a combination of Pride Rock from the Lion King and the island in the TV show Lost.  We were able to jump off the boat and swim and snorkel in the water.  The guys leading the catamaran ride barbequed us a delicious lunch and played their guitars and sang for us.  The weather was beautiful and everyone had a great time.  Later we drove back to the ship in a cab that played the loudest techno music I’ve ever heard outside of a dance club so we had our own little dance party all the way back to the ship.  Although our time in Mauritius was short, it was more than enough time to enjoy this beautiful place that is truly heaven on earth. 

 

Getting slimed

 

The sliming and crowning ceremony

People getting their heads shaved

Amanda and I kissing the fish

The Crew parading around the ship to wake us up for the day.

Neptune Day!

Neptune Day is a tradition that Semester at Sea does every fall and spring voyage to celebrate the crossing of the equator.  This tradition consists of a ceremony where students are transformed from “pollywogs” to “shellbacks”.  It involves being slimed with a mysterious fishy substance, kissing a fish and, for those who are brave enough, shaving your head.  The day starts with the loud banging of instruments being played by crew members who wake us up bright and early to start the festivities.  We ended the day with a BBQ and a talent show.  Once again we had beautiful weather and everyone had a great time.  (Of course I did not shave my head.)

Here are some body art decorations that Mike bought for Anna.  In India the women love to decorate their hands and feet with henna and art.   

I had been looking at this Buddah tapestry for so long but didn't end up buying it because we never went back to the store again.  I was so excited when I realized Jane bought it for me in the gift exchange.

Gift Exchange

Before every port my friends and I pick names from a hat and then buy something for that person while we are in port.  We only spend a small amount so its usually something small and thoughtful.  The fun part is that we have to keep it a secret from each other.  However, sometimes this can be difficult if we are traveling together.  When we get back from the port, we exchange the gifts.  I will post some pictures of the gift exchange we did after India.

 

 

Formal Dining

For special occasions on the ship we have the option to do a formal dinner where each person pays $25 and you get a really nice dinner.  We did this for the first time for Amanda's birthday.  I expected the food to be good but I had no idea.  We have incredible chefs on this ship!  It was one of the best meals I've ever had.  It makes it really hard to go back to eating the dining food but obviously its only meant for special occasions.

Monday, March 29, 2010

 

 

Me, Kara, Leigh, and Elena

 

 

Amanda's Birthday- Leigh, Kara, Elena, and me

Amanda's Birthday- Amanda, me and Jane

Sunday, March 28, 2010

 

The backwaters

Leigh, Mike, Me, Jane, and Kara

Sleeper train

Me on the sleeper train

Cochin

On the last night of our retreat we took a sleeper train to Cochin.  We boarded at 9pm and got to Cochin at about 9am.  It was definitely a unique experience sleeping on a train in India and although it could have been much worse, I was definitely relieved when it was over.  One particular reason was the fact that there were no tickets or ID needed for the train, only a manifest with names on the outside of the train to know your seat number, so technically anyone could have boarded.  But no worries, I made it.

When I got back to the ship I met up with Mike, Jane, and our other friend Leigh.  The four of us took a car around for the day and explored.  Cochin was a little bit cleaner, less crowded, and greener than Chennai.  We had our cab take us to this eco-village, which was near the backwaters.  We hung out there for a little while and then walked around the city.  That night we rented out a big room at a hotel and celebrated Amanda’s 21st birthday.  We had made flyers and passed them out around the ship and ended up having at least 75 people show up.  It worked out because everything closes early in India and we were able to rent the room out until 1am.  It was also a safe alternative to going out around India where a lot of the nightlife is somewhat shady.

I woke up really early the next morning and went with my friends Leigh, Kara, and Elena to see elephants.   We rented a car and got there just as the elephants were finished being bathed.  We got to stand in the water and pet them.  The hair on their heads was all prickly and felt really weird.  When I tried to pet them they would turn and extend their trunk out towards me to try and touch me.  I kept backing away but then eventually got used to it.

After playing with the elephants we had the chance to ride one of them.  While we were waiting in line we watched other people go for rides and inevitably we saw the elephants go to the bathroom on the trail.  I expected to see this, but what I did not expect to see was the man leading the elephant rides run behind the elephant, pick up the poop with his bare hands and chuck it over the fence.  He did this several times until the path was cleared.  I was shocked and disturbed by this, especially since he was the one helping us onto the elephant.  When it was our turn to ride, sure enough he was the one to reach for my arm and pull me on.  I clenched the Purell in my pocket and prayed that he had washed his hands when I wasn’t looking.  However, as soon as the elephant started moving I forgot all about it.  I couldn’t believe I was actually riding an elephant in India!  It was unreal.  I was sitting in the front so I had the best view.  The only downside was that we kept getting pushed forward for some reason.  I think it was the way that the elephant was walking that made my friends keep sliding into me.  I just kept picturing myself flying forward and sliding down the trunk of the elephant and landing straight in a pile of the elephant poop.  Luckily it did not happen and everything worked out, but what a memory that would be.  That night we boarded the ship and departed for Mauritius.

Hamsapriya and me

A typical Indian meal

Tarot card reader

Getting henna tattoo

The glassblower

A man weaving silk in the village

Saturday, March 27, 2010

The courtyard outside my room

The Meditation Room

Meditation Room

Drinking coconut milk

The Art of Living

After Mahabalipuram, we drove to the Dakshinachitra village where we would be participating in the Art of Living retreat.  The Art of Living Foundation was created in 1981 by Sri Sri Ravi Shankar and there are now programs in over 140 countries.  When we arrived, I was so happy to find a peaceful little village with lots of trees and quaint little cabins.  It was so nice to be out of a city and finally experience some quiet.  The people were so welcoming and everything was so pretty.  Since the village is closed off, there were no tourists or beggars.  Everything we did was within walking distance so we never had to worry about getting on buses or feeling like we had to be somewhere.  It was nice not having so much structure.  It also helped that there were only 25 of us on the retreat so the small group made it easier.  Each day we gathered in a big pavilion for meditation and yoga where we sat on straw mats and pillows.  We ate our meals in a small dining room and most of the time we ate off of banana leaves.  It felt good to live simply, even if it was just for a few days. 

The first night we gathered in the big pavilion and listened to a storyteller share some traditional Hindu stories.   After that, we had samosas, a popular Indian snack.  Each day we had a small snack around 6pm since dinner wasn’t usually served until 9pm.  In India, dinner is typically eaten on the later side.  Of course I was always starving by the time dinner came and I admit that thoughts of food sometimes interrupted my meditation.   I understand that you are supposed to do yoga on an empty stomach, but how can you meditate when your stomach is growling?  I’m convinced those Indian gurus were sneaking bites of food when no one was looking.  How would anyone even know since everyone’s eyes are supposed to be closed?

While I’m on the topic of food, I should mention that everything we ate was delicious.  Unfortunately I can’t remember all of the specific things we ate since most of the time I had no idea what they were.  But it was comforting knowing it was all vegetarian.  A typical meal consisted of a piece of naan or some sort of bread, lots of different sauces, rice, beans, and then some sort of mystery dessert.  Desserts in other countries do not compare to those in the United States.  (I mean have they heard about brownies and ice cream?  Someone needs to give them a Dairy Queen Blizzard… a ball of dough dipped in syrup is not cutting it.)  But aside from the desserts, the meals were incredible.  You just had to like spicy food… I mean really spicy.  This food would have made my Uncle Jerry sweat and he’s usually a champ when it comes to eating hot and spicy things.

Anyway, back to the mediation…. I’ll begin by talking about my meditation teacher, Hamsapriya.  At first I wasn’t sure how I felt about her because she said whatever she was thinking and was almost abrupt at times.  “Sit up!” she would say to us during meditation.  I was expecting someone more soft spoken and friendly.  However, I began to respect her so much more when I realized how honest and genuine she was in everything she said.  She seemed so connected to the truth and to her faith.  She reminded me of my Grandma Flo who passed away a few years ago.  For example, my grandma was the type of person who didn’t want you “crying over spilled milk” or walking around feeling sorry for yourself.   Like my Grandma Flo, Hamsapriya seemed comfortable with who she was and didn’t seem to get caught up in things that weren’t important.  I realize how rare it is to find people who are so grounded.  Throughout the entire weekend I felt so connected to my Grandma Flo.

After the first night, we spent two full days meditating and doing yoga.  Even though we took breaks for meals and free time, it was still the most meditation I’d ever done in one period of time.  It is hard to group all of it together though because each time it felt different.  Sometimes I was so tired that I would fall asleep and other times my mind was racing so much that I could hardly sit still.  But the more I was connected to my breath, the easier it got.  There was also something so powerful about being in India that made everything so much more meaningful.  I have been practicing yoga for years but it felt different practicing in the place where it all began.  I felt supported by the earth and by all the history that was rooted in the ground beneath me.

One particular meditation exercise that moved me was the Immortality Exercise.  It was a guided mediation where Hamsapriya took us through each phase of our lives.  It starts out by picturing ourselves when we are just 6 months old.  We imagine where we are and what we see.  Then we picture ourselves at the age of 2.  We imagine ourselves beginning to walk.  We imagine us with our parents and other people from our childhood.  We continue to picture ourselves at 5, 10, 16, 24, etc.  Once we get to our present age we continue to move forward, picturing ourselves at ages we have not yet reached.  We picture ourselves at age 40.  We picture us in our careers.  We picture ourselves being doctors and then being engineers.  We picture ourselves being Indian and then Chinese.  We actually imagine ourselves speaking Chinese.  We picture ourselves with children.  We live somewhere else, we have our own family.  We continue to do this until we get to age 80.  We are at the end of our lives, sitting on a porch, looking out at the world.   We see that we are still the same person.  It is still us.  We ask ourselves if we are fulfilled.   We ask ourselves if we are happy with our lives.

After we did exercises like this, we would discuss them in small groups and then Hamsapriya would give us her insight.  Although this meditation involved words, most of the meditating was just breathing and no words.  We would then meet in groups and answer a series of questions that Hamsapriya had given us at the beginning of the weekend.  Some of these questions included:  What do you take responsibility for?  What do you not take responsibility for?  When will you be happy?  What do you need to be happy?  When did you come to this planet?  How long do you propose to stay here?  What would you like to do in your future?  What have you done to bring out divine qualities in other people?  What have you done that brought you fulfillment?  In additions to questions, she also had a series of statements that we discussed.  A few of them included: Expectations reduce joy, Live in the present moment, Opposite values are complimentary, Accept people as they are, The present moment is inevitable, and many others. 

In addition to the meditation, we also did some yoga.   However, the yoga was not focused on the physical but instead was all about the spiritual aspects.  It was so different than anything I’ve done before and I enjoyed every minute of it.  Aside from the yoga, meditation, and meals, we also had a lot of free time to walk around the village.  Inside the village were local artists selling their crafts but unlike the street vendors, they did not hassle us and they had set prices so we did not need to bargain.  There was also a person doing Henna tattoos (a popular trend among Indian women).  There was also a palm reader and a tarot card reader.  (I’d rather not share my readings because they weren’t too optimistic.)  Lastly, they had a bookstore and a small museum with lots of art and old artifacts on display.  Since we were some of the only people there, we were able to walk around at our leisure and enjoy the peacefulness of the village.

Well that about sums up my trip... Namaste!

Thursday, March 25, 2010

 A couple of the women and children who were trying to sell us things

 

 

 

The family I met from another part of India who was visiting the temples

 

 

 

Kara, Sarah, and Me with one of the elephant monuments

Mahabalipuram

The next day I left for my trip to the Dakshinachitra village where I would be doing the Art of Living retreat.  However, instead of going straight to Dakshinachitra, which is about an hour and a half from Chennai, we drove an additional hour south and spent the afternoon in Mahabalipuram.  Mahabalipuram, also known as Mamallapuram, is a place known for its beautiful temples.  Despite the heat, we all enjoyed seeing the detailed monuments that were mostly rock-cut and sculpted from granite. 

While visiting the temples, we were swarmed by women and children trying to sell us things.  Every time we got off the bus they would follow us around until we got back to the bus.  It was difficult to get around without feeling overwhelmed.  Even if we bought something from them, we would continue to be harassed to buy more or to buy something from someone else.  It was especially difficult because we were told not to even acknowledge them because if we did they would never leave us alone.  It is hard to do this because it goes against everything I’ve been taught about recognizing and valuing everyone’s human dignity.  Ignoring another human being and not even allowing him or her to make eye contact with you is counter-intuitive to everything I’ve ever known about how to treat others.

In contrast to this experience was the interaction I had with an Indian family who was visiting the temples.  Although they hardly spoke English, we were still able to communicate with each other.  I continue to be amazed at how much can be communicated through body language and how much can be told through the eyes.  I’m constantly writing about the language “barrier” that I’ve experienced on this trip.  However, it is hardly a barrier.  In fact, words are often the barrier that can get in the way of establishing connections with others.  Our words can mask how we really feel, but our bodies don’t lie.  Coming from someone who talks a lot, it can be scary and uncomfortable not to use words.  When we cannot use words, we are much more vulnerable.  However, we are also more open to forming deeper and more meaningful relationships with others when we communicate with our hearts instead of our minds.  This trip has opened my eyes to a beauty and intimacy that I’ve always known existed but do not experience nearly enough in my day to day life back home.  This closeness I’ve felt with people from all over the world has inspired me to find this intimacy with people back home, in both the important relationships I have with my family and friends as well as those connections I make with people on an everyday basis. 

 

Monday, March 22, 2010

The Indian men just love American women

Jane and I shopping in Spencer's Plaza

My lunch at Hotel Saravana Bavan- Vegetable Dosa

Rickshaws

Chennai, India

We arrived in Chennai on March 11th to the dirtiest port we had been to all voyage.  It was a long walk to get out of the port and since immigration was at the end of the port, we couldn’t take a taxi directly from the ship nor could we take a taxi all the way back to the ship.  This meant that we had to walk along a dirty, polluted road with loud trucks every time we entered or exited the ship.  Luckily we were only in this port for one night. 

We spent our first day at a marketplace called Spencer’s Plaza that was recommended to me by Vichram, the inter-port student.  We took a rickshaw to the market and once again witnessed some insane driving.  By now, I’m kind of used to driving into oncoming traffic.  (I don’t know if that’s a good thing or a bad thing.)  It seems that everywhere we go the driving gets worse and worse.  In India there are cars, taxis, motorbikes, and rickshaws.  Taking a rickshaw allowed us to see (and smell) everything we passed along the way.  We noticed women riding side-saddle on motorbikes, which we later realized is because they can’t sit facing forward in their long dresses and saris.  We saw men riding with other men and holding onto each other’s waists and shoulders.  We also noticed men walking across the street with other men holding hands.  (We learned in Global Studies that it is very common for men to show other men affection.)

At the marketplace, we did a lot of shopping.  Instead of the fake designer stuff we had seen in China and Vietnam, India had beautiful handmade clothing, artwork, and jewelry that were all so unique.  Once again we had fun bargaining.  However, we were disappointed to learn that India is not nearly as cheap as Vietnam or China so we were definitely paying for the better quality.  Another difference about India is that almost everyone speaks English so it is much easier to communicate.

After shopping, we had a delicious vegetarian lunch at Hotel Saravana Bhavan, another recommendation from Vichram.  I knew it was a chain but I assumed it was an actual hotel so I was quite surprised when I saw it in the food court of the mall.  (Apparently a lot of places have the word Hotel in their name but are not actually hotels… confusing.)  Either way, the food was really good and I was relieved not to have to question whether or not there was meat in the meal.  I admit, however, that it was initially hard not be grossed out by the way people were eating with their hands.  To me, it is much different eating a cheese burger or pizza with your hands than it is to eat rice and various sauces with your hands since the latter usually involves your hands getting in your mouth.  I did notice there were “hand wash” stations in the restaurants, which was comforting.  During our meal I was introduced to sideways, figure eight, head bobble—the gesture for “yes” in India.  Instead of nodding like we do, they tilt their head side to side a few times.  It is similar to the gesture we make for “I don’t know” so you can imagine how confusing this could get.  But after a week, we found ourselves head bobbling right back at them. 

Later that night we went to the Park Hotel for drinks.  We learned that there is not much nightlife in India and the only places to go out are inside hotels.  Not only did the hotel have a really nice bar but they also had a disco club called Pasha.  We got there kind of early (since everything closes at midnight and you need to get a cab back by 11:45) so we were the only people there for a while.  None of us minded though since they had the most comfortable couches I’d ever sat on.  I understand it is a club and a lounge, but these couches literally made you want to fall asleep.  Luckily some of our other friends came so we were able to pull ourselves away from the mounds of pillows and get in a few dances before heading back to the ship.

 

India

I thought I was prepared for the dirt, the crowds, and the poverty I would see in India, especially having already been to China and Vietnam.  However, India is on an entirely different level.  During our pre-port meeting, we were told by the dean to “look beyond the surface” and that was certainly good advice.  On the surface India is dirty and disgusting.  Men pee on the side of the road.   Women burp out loud.  People eat with their hands.  Rickshaw and taxi drivers swarm and harass you until you take their service. Children follow you down the street and beg you to buy their things to the point that you can’t even walk straight.  The smells are unbearable.  The air is polluted.  You can’t drink the water.  Most food isn’t sanitary.  You have to cover your shoulders and knees, even though its 90 degrees and humid.  You take a shower and you are sweating again.  At first impression, India makes you want to run away from the crowds, go back to your air conditioned home, take a million showers, and try to find that clean and comfortable feeling again.  But despite the less than desirable conditions that exist on the surface, if you look a little closer, you will see that India is filled with beauty, happiness, and truth that go much deeper than the surface.

Sunday, March 21, 2010

Inter-port Students

Inter-port students are students from each of the countries we are visiting that come onto the ship the port before we get to their country.  During the time we are at sea, they visit our classes and participate in panel discussions.  They are there to teach us about their culture and offer us traveling tips.  Despite everything we learn in our classes and from our teachers, I have found the inter-port students to be the most helpful since they are the most familiar with the modern culture and can give us the perspective of a college student.  Above is a picture of Vichram, the inter-port student from Chennai.  I met him on our last day in Vietnam on my trip to the Cu Chi tunnels.  He had arrived that morning and hadn't met anyone yet.  He was really excited to be sailing with the ship and was happy to share with me everything he knew about India.  Throughout the week I kept asking him questions and he gave me a list of places to go and things to see in Chennai.  Even though we only had a night there, his advice definitely came in handy.

Friday, March 19, 2010